DMK Peter Pan Collar Coat Sew-A-Long: Day 1

Today is the first day of our Dear My Kids Peter Pan Collar Coat sew-a-long!If you would like the html codes to add a sew-a-long button to your blog if you have one go HERE.

Are you guys excited? The photo above is what you're aiming for! And, guess what? If you've never sewn a jacket before I know you can do it! You are going to come out of this sew-a-long feeling so good about yourself and loving what you've created! I'm going to try to make it as easy as possible, and will be here to answer your questions every step of the way.

This is how it's going to work. I'm going to break this sew-a-long up into several days this week. For two reasons.

1.  Those of you that need more time can hopefully have the time that you need.
2. I don't overload one single post with a bazillion pictures! :)

If you have any questions at all, or just want to comment, make sure to leave one! I will try to address any issues you are having in tomorrow's post! :)

Today we're going to do quite a bit. I think today will be the heaviest day. We're going to cut our fabric and sew most of the body of the coat. Keep in mind while following along, that although I am going to do most things in the order of the pattern instructions, I am going to make a couple of changes. I've made these changes with you in mind and how I felt would be the easiest way to make this coat.

Let's get started!  
Keep in mind my best sewing time happens at night when the kiddies are in bed. The lighting in my photos is most likely horrible.

Once you have your pattern pieces taped together (I like to print PDFs on cardstock so they are harder to ruin), it is a good idea to draw your grainline on the pieces (if it isn't there already- in this case it isn't), and also write on each piece how many of them you need to cut. It is hard to see in my photo, but this is what you need.

Back Piece: 2 main fabric and 2 lining fabric
Front Piece: 2 main fabric and 2 lining fabric
Arm Piece: 2 main fabric and 2 lining fabric
Collar: 1 main fabric and 1 lining fabric (or 2 main fabric and 0 lining fabric)
Back Yoke (cut on fold): 1 main fabric and 1 lining fabric
Front Yoke: 2 main fabric and 2 lining fabric

This pattern (for some) requires that you add in seam allowance. Karen has recently changed the pattern to include seam allowance. If you would like the updated pattern contact her and she will send it to you!
If you need to add seam allowance...

The easiest way I find to do this is to use a rotary cutter. Rotary cutters make cutting so much simpler. I could never cut my pieces with scissors. I really am horrible at it! Now, I just eyeball the seam allowance. In the pattern it says to add 1/2 inch. I've chosen to add 1/4 inch. Do what feels best to you. If you add 1/2 inch remember to sew with that large of a seam allowance and 1/4 inch to sew with that. Pretty much personal preference.

If you don't feel comfortable eyeballing your seam allowance, you can use a ruler or measuring tape to measure out periodically, leave a mark, and then match up your marks all the way around. For me this is too time consuming, thus I wing it! :)

Now, once you have all of your main fabric pieces cut...

Take those pieces and use them to cut your lining pieces. This will save you time because they will already have the seam allowance built in. This will also make sure that your lining pieces are the exact same size as your main fabric pieces which will give you a nicer finished product.

Now, by the magic of blogging all of your pieces should be cut out and put aside. :)

Yay, we finally get to sew!

For the sewing we'll start with our collar piece. Take your two collar pieces. Some of you may have chosen to use two different fabrics, or two of the same fabric. Just depends on the look you are going for.
I chose to use my main outer fabric for both pieces.
Right sides together sew the two pieces together leaving the top long edge open. If you are new to sewing curves, go slow! Don't pull at your fabric and just let it feed through the machine while gently guiding it!

Now, clip the curves. You can just do little snips all around the curve (be very careful not to cut through your stitching)! You don't have to take out notches as shown here, the clips were just not showing up on camera. Do this all around the curve on both sides- not just the little bit pictured here. What this does is helps your seam allowance to lay nicely inside when you turn your collar right side out so that you have a nice curve.
Try not clipping and you will see that the curve will not be as nice and perfect looking when turned.

Turn your collar right side out and press. If you only listen to one thing I say, listen to this.. PRESS (iron) BETWEEN EACH STEP. It may seem like it isn't needed or time consuming, but you are going to end up with a much nicer finished product if you don't skip this step! Then, topstitch 1/8 inch in all the way around not including the open edge (I use the inside of my presser foot as a guide- that is about 1/8 inch).
Set your collar aside.

Grab your two outer back pieces. Make sure you mark on at least one of the pieces the pleat marking from your pattern piece.
Put your two pieces right sides together and sew down the long edge.

Now, sew a line of stitching down your pleat marking. Make sure you don't forget to backstitch at the bottom to secure your seam!

Open up your back pieces and fold your pleat so that the seam of your back matches the seam of the pleat. PRESS! Run a row of stitching on the top of your pleat close tot he edge to keep the pleat secured (make sure the row of stitching is close to the edge and not as large as your seam allowance).

If you flip over your back piece this is what you will see. A nice pretty box pleat! Don't mind my stitching at the top there, my bobbin went a bit crazy on that last step!

Grab your back yoke piece and pin it to your back piece. I have the back yolk folded up so you can see what it will look like when it is attached but this will be most easily pinned with your two pieces right sides together and the curve of your yolk at the top of the back piece.
You will notice on your yolk piece, where it turns from a curve on the sides to straight, is only as far as your back piece will pin up to. It does not go to the top of the yolk piece. Make sense?

Now, when you are sewing the two together it is very important, and will make your life so much simpler, if you sew them together with the yolk piece on the bottom and the back piece on top. The reason for this is that you want to be following the curve of the yolk piece, not the curve of your back piece. Just forget about any curves in your back piece and just concentrate on making your back piece fit the curve of your yolk piece. Clear as mud? :) I hope not!

Another view for you as I am sewing. Even with the pins you will need to use your fingers to gently (or not so gently) make sure that your back piece stays on the curve of the yolk and help guide it through. You want that nice curve of the yolk.

When you're done the previous step you will have this nice curve joining your back to the yoke.

Unfold, PRESS your seam up towards the yoke and topstitch. You can put your back piece aside.

Take one of your front pieces and the yoke piece that belongs with that side and pin the yoke to the top piece in the exact same way as you did your back piece.

Flip to the right side, PRESS your seam up towards the yoke and topstitch just as you did the back piece.

NOW DO THIS AGAIN WITH YOUR OTHER FRONT PIECE.

Here is where we will end today! Take a deep breath, grab a beverage, and be proud of what you did today. :)
Your kids are probably messing up every room of the house so you should maybe go check on them!

I'll see you tomorrow with part two! Leave me a comment and I will do my best to answer them! :)